We were five crammed into the boyfriend’s Mark 11 Zephyr. There was mum, sister, her fiancé, me and, of course, the love of my life, later to become the husband but also, thanks to this trip, the first beau to see me without the rose-tinted sunglasses of young love. He saw me heaving up on the roadside. Not a pretty picture!
But, I digress. Back to our summer’s day, spur of the moment decision to go see Russell.
From a carless family, this novice traveller didn’t even know where Russell was or anything about it let alone the rest of the region.
Nevertheless, we threw the tent in the boot and went forth with all the zeal of the pilgrim fathers, knowing not what lay ahead. Just as well we didn’t. On arriving at a cross road which said Russell by Ferry; Russell by Road we were halted in our tyre tracks.
Mmmh… not sure about this ferry. How big? How far? Most importantly, how much? With little cash in the bag it was Russell by Road and what a road it was in the late 1960s – winding, dusty and a very long way.
We caught glimpses of sleepy seaside huddles but had no time to stop and explore. Finally we arrived at the other end with clay-crackling hair, mouths drier than the Dessert Rd and me holding back the fourth, “let me out, I’m going to be sick”. It was then we discovered there was not a campsite to be had in Russell.
I was not the most popular person in the Bay of Islands because packing the poles had been my job. Needless to say we ended up inland at the old Ngawha Springs Hotel where we consoled ourselves by soaking in restorative mineral mud pools – but that’s another story.
As it was, I had no chance to again follow the Old Russell Rd until last week when an opportunity presented itself to visit coastal Oakura, which I learned most people incorrectly pronounce as ‘o-r-kra’, (no wonder I couldn’t find it on the map).
Well, it turned out to be a wonderful journey of sea, scenery, art, people and experiences that are the very essence of New Zealand. I have decided this amazing corner of New Zealand should be a getaway destination for everyone who dreams of a seaside or rural idyll.
Oakura will bring to mind the ’50/’60s heyday of family baches, beachfront campsites and the simplicities of life such as shell collecting, row boating, fishing, walking or lying on the sand under the sun umbrella.
The beautiful Whangaruru Harbour is an obvious playground for water sports – fishing, diving, sailing, cruising and swimming. For example Oakura Bay Fish, Dive & Cruise offers amazing fishing (and crayfishing) experiences with local man of the sea Justin Smith – he and his guests have caught some whoppers!
Go inland a wee way and there is a host of adventure activities (dirt bike riding and horse-trekking to name but two) at The Farm, also home to Mean-As holiday camps for boys and offering many other ‘once in a lifetime’ experiences. The Farm’s budget priced cabins looked to be a great option for backpackers.
For those who hanker to be one with the land then a visit to Karibu Creek for farm eggs, spray-free veges, gold coin movie nights, home-made preserves and herbal tea, is a must. Owner Maxine Rees also has cottage and farmhouse family accommodation for those who need to watch the purse. What’s more the property is pet friendly for friendly pets.
On the road in you’ll pass The Gallery and Café – a breath-taking garden paradise featuring superb art from all over New Zealand. Dine on great German/Kiwi food in a tropical paradise with outstanding sea and valley views.
With accommodation to suit every budget – tent sites, backpackers and family cottages to upmarket treetop escapes like that of the delightful Robin’s Nest overlooking the bay – there is something for everyone. What’s more I understand there is a round route that takes travellers through the metalled but picturesque Russell Forest Rd.
As can be seen on the previous page there is much to tempt readers along Russell Rd with a detour into Oakura and surrounding bays an absolute must. If you take time to indulge these places as I did you’ll be delighted. I enjoyed a fantastic 36 hours talking to people I consider to be the heartbeat of New Zealand – open, welcoming, keen for me to experience life as they have it every day. And I did.
I ate superb food including seafood chowder German-style, poured over the myriad of art works and was generally overwhelmed by the tropical paradise that is The Gallery and Café. I sat in the courtyard at Karibu Greek admiring the hard work, fortitude and tea garden dreams of owner Maxine Rees.
I wandered on to The Farm, and met with big-hearted owners Mike and Ellen Bennett and was impressed by the adventure experiences they offer to kids and kids at heart. I even went fishing with Justin on the Toroa, coming home with a catch of fish and crays.
Furthermore, hubby and I stayed overnight with artist Robin Cusdin and husband Peter at beautiful Robin’s Nest waking to birdsong and sunrise over the water after an evening of great food and great conversation. Same again please!
Naturally I didn’t want to come home. But sadly family and work deemed otherwise. But there are stories to be told from this part of the land and I intend to tell them.
