Therefore it is gratifying to see the owners of Rangoli Indian Cuisine, Boman and Rustom Najmi working harder than every to give customers a taste of Mumbai cooking as it should be.
Of course, when a group of friends are out having a good time, the impact of such a meal can sometimes be lost. Not so when six of us recently visited Rangoli on Ti Rakau Drive to see just how close the menu was to authentic Mumbai cuisine.
Having never visited India, I didn’t see how I could appreciate the difference. Whats more, as I have a palate that goes into panic mode at anything hotter than a cucumber, I was fearful of what we might encounter especially as I had asked Boman to pick for us. I’m so glad we did.
Not for this table, the regular mixed entrée of pakora, samosa or spring rolls. Instead we started with Hariyali Kebab (minted chicken pieces roasted in the Tandoor oven); Malai Kebab (chicken again, this time marinated in cream and cheese then roasted in the Tandoor) plus Seekh Kebab (skewered, minced lamb packed with spices).
In particular, the two chicken dishes were rave quality. Last, but not least we also demolished a serving of burnt ginger prawns – marinated in soy and ginger Asian-style then quickly pan fried – delicious!
A lull between courses was welcomed then came a cavalcade of dishes including Chicken Matka, a Moghul-style dish with onions, garlic and ginger, Chicken Methi Masala with fenukgreek, garlic and onions, Lamb Tawa with capsicum and cumin, Beef Malwani and Dahi Bhindi, a delicious vegetarian dish using yoghurt, and okra with various spices.
What did we like best? Hard to say really. With six people all chewing and oohing everyone seemed to have a personal favourite although the fish did stand out as a winner with us all.
While Rangoli has edged closer and closer to real Mumbai cooking, Boman confessed it was difficult to accommodate all palates. “Our chef is a Mumbai local and cooks as close to his roots as possible. However, we struggle with requests such as ‘we want it hot and creamy’ when the two do not go together in India – creamy is mild, and hot is never creamy.”
Beef is another concession Rangoli has made to satisfy New Zealand’s taste for red meat. “In India the Hindu religion holds the cow sacred and while Muslims will eat beef, this meat seldom features on menus,” Boman says.
“On the other hand, in deference to Muslim beliefs, Indian cafes rarely feature pork although where there is an Asian section on the menu, as there is at Rangoli, then pork may appear but will be cooked separately from other dishes.”
“However, because it is not always possible to grind our own mix of spices we are reliant on those that are imported and can be purchased here,” Boman says. “Fortunately we do get plenty of choice.”
Like many ethnic restaurants in New Zealand, Rangoli modifies some dishes to suit locals although this restaurant does offer two versions of traditional favourites – one for New Zealanders who prefer less bite and another for those of Indian heritage or who really understand Indian cuisine and appreciate more pungent flavours.
Interestingly, Boman points out that some favourite Indian dishes in New Zealand would seldom be seen in a five star restaurant of his homeland. For example he says onion bhaji and pakora are regarded as roadside, or market stall foods in India.
However, with six of us all talking and so many flavours to consider I have to confess I was happy to try it all – five-star and roadside fare too. Moreover I have to agree with Metro magazine which recently named Rangoli Indian Cuisine among its Top 20 Asian Greats and commended the Chinese-Indian menu, in particular, Chinese street food classic, Bhel – crunchy noodles in a piquant sauce.
