INSPIRING: The Russell men take in the views from Mont Koghis. Photos Jackie Russell.

Taking on the challenge of driving a rental car and exploring greater Noumea proved to be enlightening.  The night before our adventure an obliging cafe manager recommended we visit a popular inland destination for locals, Dumbea River and hydro dam.

Driving on the right hand side of the road with little understanding of street signs and a general lack of local knowledge added to the excitement.  Another friendly information centre was located and with a map, hand signals and my feeble French, the assistant comprehended enough to send us in the correct direction.

At the river, the road became a rutted, red dirt track. Our tiny car didn’t look capable of four wheel driving so the journey to the dam was called off (it was a four hour round trip by foot).

Instead we jumped into a soothing fresh water rock pool, looked for fish and watched the antics of a local couple. The secluded area was vastly different from the beaches of Noumea and although litter was in every nook and cranny, it was a serene spot.

Our journey saw us brave Monts Koghis, a steep drive through rainforest, which passed by jungle-covered homes.  At the pinnacle sat a rather out of place mountain chalet where guests could enjoy fine dining, stay for a few nights while tramping through the hills or simply take in the view over Noumea.  A bit pricey for us, we opted to descend to the lowlands in search of a café.  With nothing in sight and tummies rumbling we stopped at a ‘dairy’ and fed four hungry mouths with crusty baguettes, pain au chocolat, juice and samosas for a meager NZ$15.

SERENE: Fish spotting at Dumbea River.

Next stop was Kuendu Beach, said to be a top spot for honeymooners but the tidal bay was not overly attractive and the area had the underlying tone of being a pick-up spot.  Tourism operators assured me this was not the case.

Upon reflection it would be better to rent a car for a couple of days with unlimited mileage, travel further and stay overnight in a smaller town.

Noumea definitely provided my family with a stress-free break from miserable Auckland weather.  Attempting a little French seemed to open people’s hearts and everyone was exceptionally friendly. 

Sure, some areas were run down but in true tropical fashion the city was a contrast of the ‘haves’ and ‘have nots’.  As for being expensive, careful shopping prevented a budget blowout and after scoring a bargain two-for-one deal for accommodation and airfares an occasional spend up was perfectly justifiable.