SPECTACULAR: View of reef from famous Phare Amedee lighthouse.

From the moment of our arrival at the port, the trip looked impressive. Onshore the crew of the Mary D played New Caledonian-style ukuleles and then leapt aboard the 28-metre, high-speed monohull to promptly sell coffee and croissants.

At our destination we enjoyed underwater sightseeing from the safety of a glass boat, although some of us jumped overboard for a close-up experience of reef life.  Lots of fun for those who have never snorkelled before but it was a shame the hosts used stale bread to lure fish to the boat. A little ecologically unsound – maybe!

Shark feeding was not to be missed with everyone filing back on board the Mary D for a quick trip to an outlying reef.  More bread and stinky fish bait attracted large fish and the star of the show, a two-metre shark. Comments about it being a harmless reef shark weren’t so convincing when you saw its ravenous jaws clamped so tightly on the bait it could be completely hauled out of the ocean.

After soaking up the sun on a beautiful, white sandy beach it was time to gorge on the buffet lunch.  French wine washed down innovative salads, fresh seafood and barbecued meat, all packed with flavour and perfectly presented.  Even the most casual dining in this southern French colony ensured there were numerous opportunities to enjoy tasty tucker that didn’t have the usual blandness expected from bulk catering.

Lunchtime entertainment was provided by the Mary D crew, who also prepared the lunch, ran the shop, took visitors snorkelling and seemed to be multi-tasking experts. They energetically performed traditional dances of the local Kanak people and other Pacific islanders.  Of course, audience participation was essential ensuring everyone had the opportunity to laugh at some rhythmically challenged, skinny white bloke.

Multi-tasking: Mary D crew members provide lunchtime entertainment.

A post-feast sojourn in the shade was promptly interrupted by the discovery of sea snakes.  Retreating to dry land after they have enjoyed a seafood feast or to shed their skins, these small serpents were intriguing.  They can be dangerous but other visitors assured us the sea snake’s mouth was too small to bite humans.  Once we knew what we were looking for, we spotted the wrigglers everywhere.

Other on-island entertainment included coconut tree climbing ‘lessons’, ascent of the famous lighthouse, coconut husking and sarong-tying and not a hustler in sight trying to sell wares or services.

This wonderful day drew to a close with the good-natured warmth of New Caledonians firmly entrenched in our memories.  Look out next week for our rental car adventure to the Dumbea region.