Roam Leisure
Northland revisited
By HELEN PERRY

Thursday, 11 October 2007

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• Smooth Operators
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• Dancing through the decades
• Experience Extreme Antarctica FREE of charge
• Saved by the manager
• For Starters with Helen Perry
• Northland revisited
• Howick and Pakuranga Times

When overseas holiday packages beckon it’s easy to ignore or even forget the beauty of one’s own country.

Having ventured no further north than Whangarei for at least 15 years, a three-day sojourn to Paihia reminded me how green is my own valley and, in particular, how lovely the Bay of Islands and other parts of Northland.

Visiting at the tail end of the winter season meant this usually busy tourist region was extraordinarily peaceful. But that didn’t stop us doing the usual tourist things. The highlight had to be our King’s bus tour which took in the lovely bush walk and kauris of Pueketi Forest, the stunning drive up Ninety Mile Beach, which incidently is only 64 miles, sand-surfing at the upper end of the beach and the serenity of Cape Reinga. We ate lunch at a small cove near the cape and later had fish and chips at picturesque Mangonui.

A running commentary from our informative and fun-loving driver, who also had a country voice to die for, filled the many gaps in my local knowledge and made me aware of sights I would otherwise have missed, in particular the burial grounds of many a vehicle caught by tide and soft sand on the beach and a small seal resting on the sand. This tour cost $178 for two, which included a 10 per cent student discount for my guest.

On arrival in Paihia, we also took the passenger ferry to Russell ($8 each). There we admired the colonial architecture of many waterfront buildings, visited the historic Christ Church, new Zealand’s oldest church where one can still see the musket holes from Hone Heke’s 1845 seige of the town, and enjoyed hot chocolate in the convivial lounge at the Duke of Marlborough.  I note that the hotel’s current gourmet package for two people includes one night’s accommodation, welcome drink, breakfast, a two-course dinner and morning newspaper all for $95 per person (superior room) or $175 per person (waterfront room).

Likes scores of others we also took in The Stone Store (NZ’s oldest stone building) and Kemp House (NZ’s oldest surviving European building) at Kerikeri where, incidently, one of the biggest surprises in the town was the growth of residential housing. It was booming.

Great shopping, wonderful galleries, funking-looking cafes and neat places like the Makana boutique chocolate factory – check out fresh cream truffles, chocolate-coated macadamias and wickedly delicious very berry toffee crunch –  provided more than one could absorb in a day. Oh, and I couldn’t resist popping into Living Earth, home to one of the country’s most successful range of skin care products. It was all too easy to stock up on essential face and hand therapies.

Everywhere we went we came across beautiful examples of jewellery, especially in Pahia where the selection of contemporary pieces was much to hard to resist. It is possible others, like myself, will leave the area with purse considerably lighter than on arrival.

Finally, no journey north is worth its salt without visiting Waitangi where the Treaty House and pristine grounds are, to my mind, a catalyst for national pride regardless of ethnic background. When one is reminded that the essence of the treaty was to create one people it seems so sad we are frequently at odds amongst ourselves and in trying to set to right those things that are wrong we often fail to celebrate all that is good in our country. Getting the balance right is certainly no easy task. Allow a good hour or more to wander and do take in the short film that shows in the information centre.

Touring aside, there is no end of places to stay ranging from attractive B&Bs to large hotels but despite the plethora of accommodation, in summer it is snapped up fast. We were fortunate to snaffle the last of a great winter deal at Kingsgate Autolodge - $109 per night including breakfast for two and right on the waterfront.

We especially enjoyed the morning breakfast, not because of the food – it was standard buffet style – but because the dining room took in magnificent bay views providing a gorgeous start to the day. Whilst this special is over, there are other very reasonable rates still available – you might even find a goody on your supermarket docket.  I do note, however, that Hotel Paihia has a special of $110 per night per couple, inclusive of breakfast. It runs until April, 2008.

When it comes to eating out, there is a bevy of eateries catering for many tastes and most budgets incuding one popular venue which is “seafood only.” For those who haven’t been north in a long time, perhaps now is as good a time as any to plan a tour of the area – I suggest 5 to 10 days would give time for exploring and relaxing.

Whilst information on the main attractions, including fishing trips and harbour tours, abounds, there are many lesser known destinations which are also charming.

And if you are planning a pre-Christmas getaway and you’re a garden-lover too, then the Rotary sponsored, Kerikeri Garden Safari takes place October 27&28. It features 20 small and large gardens through the district.

So if you do head up that away, you’ll find plenty to do and I suggest that if you spot a road and wonder where it leads to, go and find out, you could be surprised.